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Mountaineering

1983The First Free Ascent of the Trollkjerring Route

A close-up portrait of a man wearing a blue and red jacket with a white "Nova Sport" logo on the left sleeve and a white logo that says "Nova Sport" on the right sleeve. He is smiling and wearing a red scarf. He is outdoors in a snowy setting.

In the summer of 1983, the Norwegian climber Hans Christian Doseth completed the first free ascent of the legendary Trollkjerring Route in Norway’s Troll Wall – an achievement widely regarded as one of the greatest climbing performances in Norwegian mountaineering history.

Unable to find local partners willing or able to join him on what he knew would be an exceptionally demanding objective, Doseth teamed up with Japanese climber Masakazu Fujiwara after meeting him by chance in Mjelva outside Åndalsnes.

The 950-meter route climbs steep, often loose and poorly protected terrain on Europe’s tallest vertical rock face. Although Fujiwara proved capable as a belayer, Doseth led all 22 pitches himself, free climbing the entire route while Fujiwara largely followed using jumars on the fixed rope.

Doseth had previously completed the route using aid-climbing techniques during the first winter ascent in 1982, but returned this following summer with a far more ambitious goal: to climb the entire line free.

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