Mountaineeringtrollveggen

1980The First Free Ascent of the Swedish Route in the Troll Wall

A person wearing a red helmet and striped shirt is climbing a rock face. Their hands are gripping the rock, and they are looking down.

In the summer of 1980, Hans Christian Doseth, Steve Bancroft, and Chouinard Brooks achieved the first free ascent of the legendary Swedish Route on the Troll Wall.

At the time, the climb was considered one of the most demanding free-climbing achievements in Europe, requiring exceptional technical skill, endurance, and commitment on the immense vertical face.

The ascent further established Trollveggen as an international proving ground for elite climbers and reinforced Doseth’s status as one of the leading figures in the golden era of Norwegian climbing.

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