Hometown: Oslo, Norway
Favorite Mountain: Ulvetanna, Antarctic
Big wall climber Robert Caspersen can check off many first ascents from his list, both in Norway and the Alps, as well as more exotic places like Himalaya and Antarctica. Robert is a true inspiration for all types of climbers, with all his previous achievements as well as his great personality. Robert is one of the main testers for Norrøna, being very involved in both the development of the products as well as the testing process.
In November I visited Patagonia with my two friends Ole Ivar Lied and Trym Atle Sæland. As usual our ambitions were high, with plans for new routes on the highest peaks. But from earlier trips to Patagonia we knew that it is the notorious weather that dictates what kind of objectives you can attempt – if you get to do anything at all during your stay…
Our plan was to climb a new route on Aguja Standhardt (2700m), or to be more precise, a new and direct start to the classic route “Exocet”. Neither Ole nor Trym had climbed Standhardt before, so they were very keen on scaling this peak. Ole tried to climb “Exocet” back in 2010, but was forced to retreat halfway when his partner was injured; Ole had been unfortunate and dislodged a heavy load of ice on to his head. I had already climbed Standhardt via “Exocet” in 2010 with Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, so I was not particularly motivated to do this same route over again. But the direct start to “Exocet” had never been climbed and would give 400 metres of new ground – and this inspired me. We had a plan.